Black Sea Bass with Honey/Mustard Marinade

I went to the greenmarket and bought black sea bass, some Heirloom tomatoes, a baguette, fresh strawberries and was ready for dinner. Since I had never cooked black sea bass before I read up on it and, among other things, learned that the fish begins life as a female but changes into a male. Be that as it may, black sea bass turned out to be terrific food fish that will definitely become part of my cooking repertoire.

Menu

Heirloom Tomatoes
Pan roasted Black Sea Bass with Honey/Mustard Marinade
Rice
Wine: Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Dessert: Strawberries

Prep marinade

2 tablespoons white wine
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoons honey
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon Oyster or Worcestershire sauce
Ground black pepper
¾ pound sea bass fillets, cut in half

Combine marinating ingredients in a bowl. Add sea bass. Marinate for up to an hour.

Cook Sea Bass

Black Sea bass
1 tablespoon butter
Chopped parsley for garnish

Remove fish from marinade and pad dry. Heat butter in a skillet to medium high. Sauté the sea bass for 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of the fish. Transfer to the serving plates. Return marinade to the skillet and reduce till thickened. Spoon over the fish. Garnish with parsley.

The Heirloom tomatoes looked and tasted so great, I decided all they needed was bit of sea salt and a dribble of olive oil.

“Excellent dinner,” said George. “Everything tasted great.”

I rest my case.

Too Hot to Cook: Try Seviche

92 degrees. No way am I going near the stove. Seviche to the rescue. Actually I had never made seviche before and didn’t know whether George would like it. As it turned out, I needn’t have worried on either count. In fact, the meal seemed like a celebration of summer. Next time I may serve it with Prosecco.

Menu

Cold Avocado and Buttermilk Soup
Seviche
Boston lettuce and grape tomatoes for garnish
Wine: Babich Sauvignon Blanc, 2010
Dessert: Cantaloupe with Fresh Figs

Recipe Cold Avocado and Buttermilk Soup

1 ripe avocado
1 tablespoon green onion, chopped
4-5 sprigs fresh tarragon, finely chopped
Salt, pepper, lemon juice
1 ½ buttermilk, more if needed
2 shrimps, peeled and cooked

Split the avocado lengthwise; remove the pit and scoop out the pulp. Put the avocado in a blender together with the other ingredients and blend until smooth. Adjust seasoning and desired thickness. Serve in small soup bowls topped with shrimp.

Recipe Seviche

¼ lb each of fillet of sole and scallops, sliced into strips
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper
Dash of Tabasco
Boston lettuce and grape tomatoes for garnish

Place the fish pieces into a dish. Pour the lime juice over it, cover, and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours, until the fish has turned opaque. Drain off the lime juice; combine the remaining ingredients and pour over the fish. Mix well, adjust seasoning and refrigerate till ready to use.

Line serving plate with lettuce leaves, spoon seviche over it and decorate with grape tomatoes, cut in half.

Monkfish Scallops On A Bed Of Lima Bean Puree With Basic Pistou

Monkfish was a very popular dish at La Colombe d’Or, undergoing various transformations depending on seasons and chefs. In my book, “Life of a Restaurant” I offer four different monkfish preparations, freely mixing a decade of garnishes. This one is my favorite.

Menu

Monkfish Scallops
Lima Been Purée*
Basil Pistou**
Roasted Grape Tomatoes
Wine: Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Dessert: Bahlsen Dark Choco Leibniz Cookies

*See recipe, January 25, 2011 post under “Spicy Indian Chicken Meets Soothing Lima Bean Purée.” I usually make double portions of lima bean purée because I like its taste and looks. Properly stored, it will keep in the refrigerator for 3 days and in the freezer for 3 months.

Basil Pistou**

**Although I have a recipe for basil pistou in my book, I didn’t bother to make it myself and bought it ready-made from Citarella.

Cooking Monkfish

1/2 pound monkfish, sliced on the bias into 1-inch scallops, about 8 pieces)
2 bay leaves
Salt and white pepper
Snipped chive

In a saucepan, place enough water to cover the monkfish scallops. Add the bay leaves and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Add the monkfish scallops. Poach, uncovered, for 1 minute per side. (Monkfish tends to get tough easily. Don’t overcook!)

Presentation

Make a circle about 4 inches round on 2 individual plates with the basil pistou. Fill the circle with lima bean purée. Place scallops in the middle. Season with salt and white pepper. Garnish with chives.

To counterbalance all that greenery, I served roasted grape tomatoes on the side.

Grilled Salmon with Mustard Glaze

Grilled salmon used to be the number one best-seller on the menu of La Colombe d’Or. At the restaurant we served the salmon with braised red cabbage and carrot curls. Instead, I made caramelized carrots and, since I can only juggle two dishes at a time, I served the salmon with last nights’ left-over black risotto (squid ink).

Menu

Grilled Salmon with Mustard Glaze
Caramelized Carrots
Black Risotto
Wine: Bordeaux Blanc Sec “Chateau La Rame” 2009
Dessert: Chocolate Yogurt

Prep Mustard Glaze and Sauce

1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ tablespoons water
1/4 cup Pommery Grain Mustard
2 tablespoon vegetable oil

Mix the dry mustard, sugar and water together to create a paste for the glaze. In a separate bowl, mix the Pommery mustard with the oil emulsion.

Prep Caramelized Carrots

1 bunch fresh carrots
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon sherry or wine vinegar
Salt

Peel the carrots and cut off their tops. Slice them into small rounds.
In a skillet, warm the olive oil and butter. Add the carrots. Cover and let cook over medium heat until tender, about 30 to 45 minutes. When ready to serve, sprinkle the carrots with the sugar. Cook, uncovered, until the carrots have caramelized. Add the vinegar and season with salt.

Cook salmon

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Brush the salmon with oil. Season with salt and pepper. In a hot skillet, sauté the salmon, skin-side down, for 3 minutes at one side. Remove the salmon and brush the top with the mustard glaze. Transfer the salmon in the preheated oven for 3-4 minutes for medium rare.

Place the salmon in the middle of the plate; surround with the Pommery mustard sauce, the carrots and risotto.

Back in 1994, we suggested to enjoy the dish with white Burgundy such as Chassagne-Montrachet or Puligny-Montrachet. Today, these wines retail for about $120. We were just as happy with our Bordeaux Blanc.

“Excellent dinner,” said George. I wholeheartedly agreed.

Spanish Mackerel with Orange and Anchovy Sauce

Blood orange and anchovy with fish? I couldn’t imagine what that would taste like. But, since restaurateur Anita Lo, whose recipe appeared in the Wall Street Journal, is a highly regarded chef, I decided to go for it. In case the dish didn’t turn out, I had left-over meatballs as a backup.
Lo and behold, the dish tasted terrific. Even George, who usually makes a face when I serve fish, was impressed and thought it was “highly original.”

Menu

Spanish Mackerel
Boiled Potatoes
Artichoke Vinaigrette
Wine: Bordeaux Blanc Sec “Chateau La Rame” 2009
Dessert: Cinnamon/Apple Cake

Recipe

2 four-ounce fillets of Spanish mackerel with skin
2 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and thinly chopped
Pinch of red pepper flakes
Zest of ½ lemon, grated
2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry and finely sliced*
¼ cup orange juice
1 tablespoon butter, more if needed
1 small blood orange, sectioned
Snipped chives for garnish
*I substituted anchovy paste for the anchovy fillets.

Preheat Broiler

Place a sauté pan over high heat. Add olive oil, shallot, garlic, pepper flakes, lemon zest, and anchovies to the pan. Cook until it sizzles. Add orange juice and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook until the mixture thickens. Turn off the heat and swirl in the butter. Add the orange sections. Adjust seasoning. Divide the sauce among 2 plates

Meanwhile brush both sides of the mackerel with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place mackerel, skin side up, on the top of the oven rack. Cook until the skin starts to blister, about 3-5 minutes. Arrange the mackerel fillets over the sauce and garnish with chives.

Serving the gentle Bordeaux Blanc with the macho dish was a mistake. The more pungent Babich Sauvignon Blanc would have been a better choice.

Beurre Noir turns into Bête Noir: Skate with Beurre Noir

I love the texture and flavor of skate. Besides, the fish cooks in four minutes. Dinner should have been a cinch. So what went wrong? The beurre noir, that’s what. While all recipes for beurre noir state that the butter would brown within 1 minute, it took this butter at least 5 minutes to show any color. Maybe it was the pan; maybe it was the quality of the butter, who knows? Meanwhile, my perfectly sautéed fish was getting cold.

“You should have warmed the plates,” said George.

The white Bordeaux was lovely. Soft, fruity, it added a touch of class to the meal.

Menu
Skate with Beurre Noir
Red Pepper Coulis*
Salad
Wine: Chateau La Rame, Bordeaux Blanc, 2009
Dessert: Chocolate Frozen Yogurt

Recipe Skate

2 pieces of skinless, boneless skate
Flour to dust
Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or lemon juice
1 tablespoon capers, drained
Chopped flat-leaf parsley for garnish

Lightly dust both sides of the skate with flour. Season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet. When hot, add skate. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes per side until the fish turns opaque. Transfer skate to two plates. (Preferably warm)

Melt remaining butter in a pan over high heat. Cook until the butter starts to turn golden. Remove from heat, swirling pan. Add vinegar or lemon juice, and capers. (Caution: the butter might splatter all over the place). Spoon sauce over skate. Garnish with chopped parsley.

*See August 4, 2010 blog for Red Pepper Coulis recipe

Chinese New Year Celebration: The Year of the Rabbit

A gigantic feast prepared by sister-in-law Jane Studley, enjoyed by
family and friends ranging in age from 3 to 92.

The Buffet

Assorted Spring Rolls
Sashimi platter including tuna tartare and crabmeat salads
Boned, slices of roasted duck
Boned slices of roasted chicken
Steamed artichokes with dipping sauce
Platter of cooked, mixed vegetables
Platter of raw, shredded vegetables
Whole sea bass
Bean curd
Jellyfish and shredded radish
Pigeon
Broccoli Rape
Mixed salad with raisins and walnuts

“Pigeon?” I asked Jane.
“Yes,” she said, without further explanation. She was so busy, I didn’t want to bother her.

We left before dessert. Jane offered us a doggy bag which I declined. Dumb.

Our dinner the following evening was less exalted:

Frozen Tortelloni plus Spanish Chorizo and Green Peas

Thanks to Fresh Direct I had a box of frozen Tortelloni in the freezer. Although the label stated that the tortelloni contained gorgonzola and walnuts, there was no evidence of it. Still, who was counting? I had a sweet Spanish chorizo in the refrigerator, some Parmesan, plus a small can of sweet peas.

After the tortelloni were cooked and strained, I sautéed them with olive oil in a hot pan to brown. Next I tossed small slices of chorizo, skin removed, into the pan, together with the drained peas. After plating I grated Parmesan over the pasta.

Menu

Piquillo Pepper stiffed with Italian Ricotta Cheese
Tortelloni with Sweet Spanish Chorizo & Sweet peas
Watercress salad with grape tomatoes, dried cranberry, and walnuts
Wine: Chateau Massiac, Minervervois Rouge “Cuvée Sentille, 2009
Dessert: Chocolate Frozen Yogurt

Am happy to report that my salad was almost as good as Jane's.

Baked Red Snapper with Piquillo Pepper Vinaigrette

My love for red snapper continues. This time I garnished the fish with another favorite of mine: piquillo peppers. The Spanish peppers are roasted over embers, which gives them a distinct sweet, spicy flavor. They are peeled and de-seeded by hand, before being packed into jars or tins. Stuffed with goat cheese, shrimp, or left-over rice, they make terrific appetizers. I like to toss them into green salad.

Menu
Red Snapper with Piquillo Pepper Vinaigrette
Rice
Baked Spinach
Wine: Martin Códax Albariño Rías Baixas 2009
Dessert: 85% Lindt Dark Chocolate

Baked Spinach Recipe

Preheat the toaster oven to 400 degrees

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 pound spinach, well washed
Salt,pepper and a touch of sugar to taste

Pour olive oil in an ovenproof casserole. Add rest of the ingredients, cover with aluminum foil, and place in the oven. Spinach will be ready in 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and keep covered, till ready to use.

Piquillo Peppers Vinaigrette Recipe

3 scallions, chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 tomato, diced
1 teaspoon drained, small capers
1 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
4 whole canned Piquillo peppers, sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat a small sauce pan to medium-high. Add the scallions, onions, and garlic. Cook through till wilted. Mix in the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Remove the sauce from the heat, cover to keep it warm.

Red Snapper Recipe

¾ lbs red snapper fillet, with skin, cut in half
Salt

Preheat toaster oven to 450 degrees

Season the fillets with salt, and place, skin-side down, on a baking sheet. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until the fillets are opaque and just beginning to flake.

Put a fillet on each plate. Spoon the warm vinaigrette over each fillet.

Scallops with Braised Endive and Broccoli Rape

Surely, scallops are among cook’s best friend. You barely have to wash them; in a pinch, you can eat them raw. To cook them takes all but 2 minutes per side. They all but beg to be accompanied by vegetables with pronounced tastes. Broccoli rape, that slightly bitter, macho green and the slightly off-beat Belgian endive fill the bill.

The broccoli rape can be prepared ahead of time, which is a blessing since the endives require supervision and the scallops are cooked à la minute.

Menu

Scallops with Endives & Broccoli Rape
Wine: Domaine Jean-Paul Balland, Sancerre 2009
Dessert: Chocolate Yogurt

Broccoli Rape

1 bunch broccoli rape
2 tablespoons olive
2 cloves of garlic, minced
Red pepper flakes
Salt

Remove the tough stems from the rape. Cut the smaller leaves into 2-inch pieces, leaving the buds intact. Drop the rape into salted boiling water. When the water beings to boil again, drain immediately, saving ¼ cup of liquid.
Place the rape into a saucepan with the oil, garlic and pepper flakes. Cook 10-15 minutes or until tender. Add some of the reserved liquid if the rape becomes too dry.

Endives

2 small endives
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon Madeira (or sweet Vermouth)
Salt

Remove dark leaves from the endive. Trim the ends. Cut the endive in half; core the inside. Heat the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the sugar, Madeira and salt. Add the endives. Cover loosely with wax paper. Braise over medium heat, until soft and slightly brown, about 15-20 minutes, turning once.

Scallops

6 scallops
Salt
1 tablespoon butter

Pat the scallops dry. Salt lightly. Heat butter in pan over high heat. Add scallops. Cook for 2 minutes per side.

Presentation

Place the braised endive in the center of individual plates. Surround with the broccoli rape. Arrange the scallops around the broccoli.

Ode to Red Snapper

Red snapper would win first prize by looks alone. Slightly curved, with a flattened belly and pointed nose, the fish looks elegant. The scales run from silver pink to deep rose red. But, it is red snapper’s slightly sweet and delicate taste that has me fall in love with this fish. The less done to it, the better. A whole snapper weighs from 2 to 3 pounds. Luckily, most fishmongers sell fillets. To cook these well—and this applies to all fish—depends more on look and touch than on timing, depending on the texture and thickness of the fish.

Menu

Baked Red Snapper with Fried Parsley
Mashed Potatoes
Wine: Willm Pinot Gris 2008
Dessert: Lemon Bread Pudding

Recipe Red Snapper

¾ pound red snapper fillet, cut into two portions
Salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, sliced thin
Several hot red pepper flakes
About 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Opt. Fried Parsley

Preheat oven to 450 degrees

Lay the filet, skin-side down, on an oiled baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and bake for 8-10 minutes, or until the fish is opaque throughout.
In a small sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until it is wilted. Add the pepper flakes and vinegar. Cook,
stirring, until the sauce is blended.
Spoon sauce over and the fillets and garnish with the fried parsley.

Recipe Fried Parsley

1 bunch curly parsley, washed and dried, coarse stems removed
Vegetable oil for frying
Salt

Heat the oil in a deep fryer or wok over medium-high heat. Add the parsley and hold it in the oil till crisp. Remove with a skimmer and drain on paper towers. Sprinkle with a bit of salt.

Squid Ink Risotto

When I saw a packet of squid ink at the checkout counter of Agata & Valentina, I couldn’t resist. Once home, I didn’t know what to do with it. Meanwhile I was busy with Christmas happenings. The squid ink, however, gave me no peace. I studied several recipes before embarking on a composite. Just in case the risotto wouldn’t come out, I included my tried and true Shrimp with Garlic and Parsley dish.

I didn’t have to worry. “Excellent,” said George. I agreed. The shrimps played second fiddle.

Menu
Squid Ink Risotto
Shrimps with Garlic and Parsley
Mixed Salad
Wine: Urbano Torrontès
Dessert: Cherry Garcia Ice Cream

Recipe: Squid Ink Risotto
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 cup of arborio or carnaroli rice
1 tablespoon white wine
2 ¼ cups chicken stock, heated
1 packet squid ink
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
Salt

In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the rice and stir for a few minutes, coating the grains with the oil. Add the wine and enough chicken stock to cover the rice. Stir until the rice absorbs the liquid. Repeat, add a ladle of stock at a time, allow it to be absorbed until all stock is used. Cooking time will be about 18-20 minutes. Once the risotto is cooked add the squid ink, stir well, then add the Parmesan and season with salt.

To add a splash of color to the nearly black risotto, I topped the individual portions with red piquillo pepper strips. Not very Italian, but attractive. The Argentinean white wine is a recent discovery. Young and lively, it is very food friendly.

Baked Salmon Vinaigrette with Home-Style Roasted Potatoes

I was intrigued by Teresa Barrenechea’s recipe that called for salmon vinaigrette. Since George loves salmon in any shape or form, I went for it. I had previously made the home-style roasted potatoes (see the blog of October 22nd) and liked the result. Since the salmon dish only requires 7 minutes and the potatoes need 30 minutes, I roasted the potatoes first and kept them covered to stay warm.

Menu

Baked Salmon with Vinaigrette
Home-style Roasted Potatoes
Green Salad
Wine: Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie Corbières Blanc 2009
Dessert: Lindt 80% chocolate
Madeira

Potato Recipe:
Preheat oven to 450 degrees

1 Yukon Potato, peeled and cut into medium-thick slices
1 red onion, cut into thin strips
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt & pepper
Opt. chopped parsley for garnish

Cover bottom of baking pan with some of the olive oil. Place potatoes, onions, olive oil, salt and pepper into a baking dish. Cover with aluminum foil. Bake in preheated oven for 30 minutes. Mix before serving and garnish with chopped parsley.

Recipe Salmon

½ pound salmon fillet
Salt
1 small tomato, diced
1 scallion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoons sherry vinegar

Preheat oven to 450 degrees

Sprinkle salmon with salt. Place on the baking sheet. Combine the tomatoes, scallions, oil, and vinegar. Spoon the mixture over the salmon and bake for 5 -7 minutes (for rare); 10 minutes for medium rare.

The roasted potatoes stole the show. George called the dish “exceptional,” and I agreed. Perhaps the extra resting time intensified their flavor.

Of late I’ve asked Will Helburn of Rosenthal Wine* for wine recommendations. Will suggested a white Corbières. On the first sip, the wine seemed much too buttery. As it turned out, it was the perfect match for the fatty salmon.

*Will Helburn/Rosenthal Wine Merchant
318 East 84 Street (212) 249-6650
rosenthalwine@att.net

Red Snapper with Anchovy Butter

Red snapper is such a delicate fish, the less you do with it, the better. Serving it with flavored butter was George’s idea. It reminded us of Kay Hansen, our first great chef at La Colombe d’ Or who used to serve our Tom Cat bread with three different kinds of flavored butter, changing them from day to day. With the advent of olive oil, butter went out of style. I, for one, am ready to resurrect it. Trying to decide between mustard, tarragon or anchovy butter, I opted for the anchovy one.

Menu
Red Snapper with Anchovy Butter
Mashed Potatoes
Broccoli Rabe
Wine: Alsace Gentile de Katz 2009
Dessert: Chocolate Yoghurt with Belgian Wafer Cookies

Recipe

¾ pound red snapper fillet, cut into two portions
Oil
2 tablespoons butter, softened
1 tablespoon or more anchovy paste
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
Lemon juice and lemon wedges

Preheat oven to 450 degrees

Incorporate the softened butter, anchovy paste, chopped parsley and a bit of lemon juice and set aside. Place the fillets, skin side down, on a lightly oiled baking dish. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish. Transfer the fish to a serving plate and top with a portion of the flavored butter. Serve with lemon wedges.

This was a lovely dish and easy to prepare. The highly recommended Alsatian wine was a tad too sweet to compliment the dish.

Salmon with Avocado Remoulade

Unlike George, I am not enamored with salmon. To please George, I went to buy it at Agata & Valentina. The lady ahead of me bought King salmon which was $6.00 more than regular salmon.

“Is it worth the difference?” I asked.

“Definitely,” she said. She was right.

Menu

Salmon with Avocado Remoulade Sauce
Mashed potatoes (GS)
Salad (HS)
Wine: Giesen Sauvignon Blanc 2009
Dessert: Caramelized Apple Slices


Prepping:

1 ripe avocado, peeled and cut into chunks
2 tablespoons lemon juice
About 2 teaspoons green onions, finely chopped
About 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil, more if needed
1teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper

I put the avocado, lemon juice, onions and parsley in the food processor
and blended it, gradually adding the olive oil, and seasoned the mixture with mustard, salt and pepper. I stored the sauce in a bowl, covered it with seran wrap and kept it in a cool place till ready to use.

Cooking:

¾ lb King salmon fillet, cut into two portions
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Lemon wedges for garnish

I seasoned the salmon with salt and pepper and sautéed the fish, skin
side down, for about 3 minutes per side. I plated the salmon and
served it alongside the avocado sauce.

The look of the pale green remoulade and the glistening pink salmon
alone made me root for this dish. More important, this salmon was succulent and infinitely flavorful. George awarded the avocado sauce
two stars.

Dinner without George: Skate

Yesterday was George’s birthday. His brother and sister-in-law had planned a party. Alas, George is still in the hospital and we observed the day according to the ICU rules: no flowers, no food, no champagne.

A friend invited me for dinner, but I needed to be home. I cooked skate--
a fish I love-- dressed with my favorite condiments. At first, I thought
I would have Prosecco, but dismissed that as being too pretentious. Besides, as much as I like champagne or sparkling wine for an aperitif, I don’t think it pairs well with food. I decided on Wilm’s Alsatian 2009 Riesling instead.

Menu

Skate Mayonnaise
Peas
Yellow baby tomatoes
Wine: Wilm Riesling 2009
Dessert: Biscotti

Jane Grigson’s paper bag "Fish Cookery" came out in 1973. Rediscovering it among my cookbooks, I became a new devotee. Those were the days
when butter and cream reigned high and the pleasures of the table were
not measured by counting calories. Grigson gives five recipes for skate.
The one I liked best was skate mayonnaise. It also fitted into my
schedule. I prepped everything in the morning and assembled the rest
in the evening.

Recipe Skate Mayonnaise

Instead of poaching the fish in court-bouillon, I poached it in white wine, spiked with bay leaves and a bouquet garni. As suggested, I dressed the poached fish with a little vinaigrette, made with lemon juice and olive oil.

In the evening, I seasoned Kiwi mayonnaise with lemon and added a lot of
capers. I put some lettuce leaves on the place, arranged the skate on top
and poured the mayonnaise over it.

I lapped it all up. At the end I made little mayo and lettuce sandwiches. The Riesling did the rest. Only George was missing.

My Dinner without George

Cod with Mustard Butter


It looks like George is going to be in the hospital for quite some time. My dinners have been sporadic and not very good: store bought, dried chicken, overpriced and underdressed Cobb salad,  tough roast beef Tartine, and a boring Pad Thai.

I went to the Farmer’s market this morning, essentially to buy plums and
cherry tomatoes and ended up buying sweet red baby peppers and a beige colored cauliflower not larger than a man’s fist. I remembered the fantastic taste of these cauliflowers from last year: superior to any cauliflower I had tasted before. I waited a year to experience that taste again. When I bought a piece of cod from Long Island  fish vendor I knew I was going to cook tis evening after my return from
the hospital. The very thought made me feel good.

Menu

Cod with Mustard Butter
Roasted sweet baby red peppers
Yellow tomatoes, sliced
Wine: Vin de Savoie, Appremont 2008
Dessert: Biscotti

Prep: Sweet Red Baby Peppers

I removed the green stems  from the peppers, brushed them with oil, and baked them in the preheated for about 25 minutes. When done, I scooped out the seeds of which there were few.

Prep: Mustard Butter

I combined 2 tablespoons of softened butter with 2 teaspoons of Dijon mustard and seasoned  the mixture with salt and pepper.

Cooking

6 oz. cod

I brushed the cod with clarified butter and sautéed it in a hot pan for 3-4 minutes on each side. (Cooking fish, I go more by feel than by timing).

I had already placed the red peppers and yellow tomatoes on the serving plate and put the cod in the center, napping it generously with the mustard butter. The cold mustard butter melted when it hit the warm cod. . The dish could have used some boiled potatoes, but I couldn’t be bothered and was just as happy to soak up that sauce with chunks of bread.

I savored the meal and raised a glass of wine to my absent George. Unfortunately, the wine didn’t stand up to the dish. Buttery and macho, it demanded an equally rich, and mighty wine.

Tomorrow I’ll cook the cauliflower and have it with a skirt steak

A Basque Fish Dinner: Hake & Txakolina Wine

Ever since Eric Asimov mentioned New York sources of Txakolina, the impossible to pronounce, but utterly beguiling Basque white wine, my head has been filled with memories of our trip to San Sebastian. We were seduced by its people, scenery, architecture, food and wine. We had a high-end, intriguing meal at Azrac, a superb lunch at the Guggenheim Museum Restaurant in Bilbao, and several delightful snacks of pinchos at a café around the corner from our hotel. No matter where and what we ate, we drank the local Txakolina. Light, young and refreshing, the wine fitted right in.

When we returned New York, the wine was unavailable in wine stores. Fortunately that has changed and, thanks to Asimov’s information, I hunted down several of them. Question was: “now what?”
I toyed around with idea of giving a pinchos party. But, because of the limited space of our apartment that was totally unrealistic. Then I thought of hake, that delectable, delicate fish we had so enjoyed during our Basque visit.

Hake is not always available. Luckily, I found it at Citarella.* (In a pinch, use scrod.)

Menu

Tomato Salad
Lightly Puffed Pan-Fried Hake
Roasted Potatoes
Wine: Xarmant Arabako Txakolina
Dessert: Ice Cream

Recipe**

¾ lb hake cut into 6 portions
1 tablespoon flour
Salt and white pepper
1 egg, white and yolk separated
1 tablespoon olive oil

Season the hake with salt and white pepper; dredge each piece in flour and shake off excess flour. Beat
the egg white until foamy, then whisk in the egg yolk.In a sauté pan, heat the oil. Dip the fillet pieces into
the egg mixture and drop them into the pan. Sauté for 3 minutes per side, less or more depending on the thickness of the fish.

The Txakolina, of course, had us reminisce about our visit to the Basque country. What a delight!

*Citarella ((212) 874-0383
http://www.citarella.com/
**Adapted form Teresa Barrenechea’s “The Basque Table”

Bonnard in the Kitchen

Avocado Soup with Shrimp & House Cured Salmon

Pale olive green, blush red, splashes of dark green-- the colors of avocado and shrimp soup; surely, a palette that would have pleased many painters, particularly Pierre Bonnard. What’s even more, the dish isn’t only good enough to eat—it is great. Thanks, Mark Bittman for your recipe.

House-cured salmon was one of our favorite summer appetizers at La Colombe d’Or. It requires no cooking, is made in advance, and is light and refreshing. Extra portions will enhance Cucumber Soup, another summer crowd pleaser. (to follow soon)

Menu

Avocado Soup with Shrimp
House-cured Salmon
Light sour Cream
Cucumber Salad
Wine: Prosecco Zardetto Brut
Dessert:

Recipe: Avocado Soup with Shrimp

1 cup chopped, ripe avocado (1 large or 2 small avocados)
¾ cup milk (more if needed)
Salt and cayenne pepper
1 Tablespoon lime juice, or to taste
4 large cooked shrimps*
Chopped parsley for garnish

Put chopped avocado in a blender. Gradually add milk, a pinch of salt and cayenne pepper; process to a purée. Add more milk as needed. Chill for up to 6 hours (press a piece of plastic wrap to surface of soup so it does not discolor.)

When ready to serve, add lime juice and adjust seasoning. Serve in individual soup bowls, float the shrimps on top, garnish with parsley.

*Tip on cooking shrimp. Place unshelled shrimps in a sauce pan with cold water to cover. Bring to a light boil. Remove the shrimps when the shells turn red, refresh under cold running water. Peel and serve.

Recipe: House-Cured Salmon

The measurements depend strictly on the thickness of the salmon

2 tablespoons coriander seeds
2 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 ¼ cup Kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
8 ounces salmon fillet

Coarsely grind the coriander seeds and peppercorns in a food processor. Coat the both sides of the salmon with the ground spice mixture. Put the coated salmon into a Ziploc bag. Combine salt and sugar. Completely cover the salmon with the salt/sugar mixture. Shake the bag to make sure the salt evenly covers the salmon. Refrigerate.

Depending on the thickness of the salmon, the salmon will be cured after 5 to 6 hours. Rinse under cold water; blot dry and brush off any remaining coriander seeds and peppercorns.

When ready to serve, thinly slice the salmon fillets against the grain. Serve with sour cream and cucumber salad on the side.

Enjoy the dinner with Prosecco.
Cheers!

Filet of Sole with Almonds

Thinking how to utilize the left over slivered almonds from my previous white garlic soup brought me to this dinner. Filet of sole with almonds was one of our favorite dishes many years ago. I decided to resurrect it. I realized with a shock that, in order to do it right, I had to clarify the butter—something I hadn’t done since the age of butter gave way to olive oil. Clarifying butter, however, is not a big deal. All you have to do is bring the butter to a boil in a small saucepan, let it stand for a few minutes and then skim off the white particles that form on top. It was like a throw back to former cooking days. Will I do soufflés next?

Menu

Filet of Sole with Almonds
Rice
Green salad with black olives, feta cheese, and grape tomatoes
Wine: Columbia Crest 2009
Sauvignon Blanc
Dessert: Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia Ice Cream

Recipe Filet of Sole

2 pieces of sole (about ¾ lb)
Flour for dusting, seasoned with salt & white pepper
About 4 tablespoons clarified butter
¼ cup slivered almonds
Lemon wedges & parsley for garnish

Dust the filets with the seasoned flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in sauté pan. Sauté the filets for about 2 minutes per side. Remove to a serving dish. Heat the remaining butter in the pan, add the almonds and cook till golden brown. Pour the almond/butter sauce over the filets. Garnish with lemon wedges and springs of parsley.

The Columbia Crest from Washington State added to our enjoyment of the meal. Wish they would all be like that.

A Symphony in Pink: Poached Salmon

I didn’t plan it, but the dinner turned out to be a symphony in pink-- the perfect prelude to the 4th of July weekend.

Menu

Poached Salmon with Chive Sauce
Salmon Roe with Blinis
Watercress & Grape Tomato Salad
Wine: E. Guigal: Tavel 2007
Dessert: Cherry Garcia Ice Cream

Recipe: Salmon

½ lb. salmon fillet with skin cut in half
Wesson oil
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Bay leaves (optional)

I brushed the salmon with oil and seasoned it with salt and pepper. Then I placed the salmon onto a bamboo steamer, lined with bay leaves, and covered the basket. I set the steamer over a pan with water, brought it to a boil and poached the salmon for 3 minutes on each side. I removed the salmon, let it cool and served it at room temperature.

Chive Sauce

Kewpie Mayonnaise*
Plain yogurt, strained (I always do that to removed all that water)
Spanish Pimenton de la Vera (or Hungarian paprika)
Taramassalata (also spelled Taramasolata)
Chopped chives

I totally improvised the sauce. I didn’t measure anything. I just kept on tasting, adding a little bit of this and a little bit of that, whatever I had in the house. As it happened I liked the sauce so much, I kept spreading it on the bread. Alas, the salmon was slightly overcooked.

The wine was a Rosé with muscle. It had the typical Tavel Burgundy color and had aged nicely. It was the perfect accompaniment to the salmon.

* With its light texture, Kewpie Mayonnaise tastes more like French than Hellman’s mayonnaise. I buy it at Katagari Japanese Market on 59th St. bet. 3rd and 2nd Aves.

Readers Comments:
Ever so often, I’ll post some of the reader’s comments to the various dinners.

Nadia W. “Try Ithaka’s moussaka. It has a very light Béchamel sauce and is utterly delicious!”
Mary C.   “Buying Zabar’s Gazpacho, as you had recommended, I discovered their Russian Cucumber Soup. It’s chock-full of cucumbers and tomatoes and is most refreshing.”