Steak Tartar

The Raw & Delicious

I have always loved tartar steak. When I was a child, we had it every Friday evening for supper. Friday was also the day when my hair was washed with rain water, a procedure thought so delicate, that I was allowed to have supper in bed. I don’t know what I liked more: the taste of the tartar steak, the dark, chewy peasant bread and dill pickle, or being allowed to read while eating and listening to music.

Another impressive steak tartar recalls the time George and I were house sitting of friend’s country place in St. Rémy-de-Provence. One day, we bought freshly ground horse meat from the local Chevaline. The meat had such a terrific taste, we only added was some salt and pepper. As usual, we took lunch on the terrace in back of the house, overlooking the garden. We savored the steak tartar, sipped Mas de la Dame and felt extremely happy.

Once more, the warm weather has put me in the mood for steak tartar, one of my favorite summer dishes. There is nothing scary about eating raw meat as long as you know from whom to buy it.*

Menu

Steak Tartar (sometimes spelled steak tartare)
Cole Slaw
Dill pickle
Watercress & Cherry Tomato Salad
Wine: Château d’Oupia, Minervois, 2007

Recipe

½ lb top sirloin, ground
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon goose fat**
1 tablespoon nonpareil capers
1 dash Tabasco Sauce
Salt & pepper

I mix everything together, wrap it in foil and let rest in the refrigerator while I get the rest of the meal ready. We both agreed the dinner was terrific.

*I trust the butchers at Ottomanelli on York Ave. & 82nd Street to grind the cut of meat I ask for and have never been disappointed.

**Available from Schaller& Weber at Second Ave & 86 St.
(212) 879-3047