Surely, scallops are among cook’s best friend. You barely have to wash them; in a pinch, you can eat them raw. To cook them takes all but 2 minutes per side. They all but beg to be accompanied by vegetables with pronounced tastes. Broccoli rape, that slightly bitter, macho green and the slightly off-beat Belgian endive fill the bill.
The broccoli rape can be prepared ahead of time, which is a blessing since the endives require supervision and the scallops are cooked à la minute.
Menu
Scallops with Endives & Broccoli Rape
Wine: Domaine Jean-Paul Balland, Sancerre 2009
Dessert: Chocolate Yogurt
Broccoli Rape
1 bunch broccoli rape
2 tablespoons olive
2 cloves of garlic, minced
Red pepper flakes
Salt
Remove the tough stems from the rape. Cut the smaller leaves into 2-inch pieces, leaving the buds intact. Drop the rape into salted boiling water. When the water beings to boil again, drain immediately, saving ¼ cup of liquid.
Place the rape into a saucepan with the oil, garlic and pepper flakes. Cook 10-15 minutes or until tender. Add some of the reserved liquid if the rape becomes too dry.
Endives
2 small endives
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon Madeira (or sweet Vermouth)
Salt
Remove dark leaves from the endive. Trim the ends. Cut the endive in half; core the inside. Heat the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the sugar, Madeira and salt. Add the endives. Cover loosely with wax paper. Braise over medium heat, until soft and slightly brown, about 15-20 minutes, turning once.
Scallops
6 scallops
Salt
1 tablespoon butter
Pat the scallops dry. Salt lightly. Heat butter in pan over high heat. Add scallops. Cook for 2 minutes per side.
Presentation
Place the braised endive in the center of individual plates. Surround with the broccoli rape. Arrange the scallops around the broccoli.
Our Daily Dinner
January 22, 2011
January 17, 2011
My Version of Choucroute Garni
Preparing my version of choucroute garni, I remember the ones I ate on my several visits to Alsace: the mountain of pale choucroute, three different kinds of sausages, gigantic pig’s knuckle, cured slab bacon, plus boiled potatoes--enough to feed the Light Brigade. I briefly considered adding the two Italian sausages sitting in the refrigerator to my version, but decided against it. Who eats like that now?
Instead I concentrated on elevating the ready made sauerkraut from Schaller & Weber to something more akin to the noble Alsatian kraut. I warmed up some duck fat, added white wine and a few twists of ground juniper berries. When the mixture had cooked through, I turned off the heat and seasoned the sauerkraut with salt and sugar.
Menu
Baked Pork Chops with Vegetables
Sauerkraut
Boiled potatoes
Wine: Willm Rieseling 2008
Desert: Grapes
Prep Vegetables
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small green pepper, seeded and chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 tomato, chopped
Salt, pepper, pepper flakes, sugar
Heat olive oil in a skillet. Sauté green pepper, then add onion. Reduce heat and continue to cook. Add tomatoes. Cook vegetables for about 20 minutes until soft. Season the vegetables with salt, black pepper, pepper flakes and sugar. Set aside till ready to use.
Recipe Baked Pork Chops
2 pork chops, trimmed and patted dry
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
Reheat the cooked vegetables.
Season the pork chops with salt and pepper. In a skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add pork chops and sauté until lightly browned. Transfer pork chops to a casserole. Spoon the vegetables over the chops and bake, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the chops are cooked through.
George’s verdict: “tough and tasty.” Fact was I’d overcooked the chops by a few minutes. The sauerkraut tasted terrific.
Instead I concentrated on elevating the ready made sauerkraut from Schaller & Weber to something more akin to the noble Alsatian kraut. I warmed up some duck fat, added white wine and a few twists of ground juniper berries. When the mixture had cooked through, I turned off the heat and seasoned the sauerkraut with salt and sugar.
Menu
Baked Pork Chops with Vegetables
Sauerkraut
Boiled potatoes
Wine: Willm Rieseling 2008
Desert: Grapes
Prep Vegetables
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small green pepper, seeded and chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 tomato, chopped
Salt, pepper, pepper flakes, sugar
Heat olive oil in a skillet. Sauté green pepper, then add onion. Reduce heat and continue to cook. Add tomatoes. Cook vegetables for about 20 minutes until soft. Season the vegetables with salt, black pepper, pepper flakes and sugar. Set aside till ready to use.
Recipe Baked Pork Chops
2 pork chops, trimmed and patted dry
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
Reheat the cooked vegetables.
Season the pork chops with salt and pepper. In a skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add pork chops and sauté until lightly browned. Transfer pork chops to a casserole. Spoon the vegetables over the chops and bake, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the chops are cooked through.
George’s verdict: “tough and tasty.” Fact was I’d overcooked the chops by a few minutes. The sauerkraut tasted terrific.
January 14, 2011
Ode to Red Snapper
Red snapper would win first prize by looks alone. Slightly curved, with a flattened belly and pointed nose, the fish looks elegant. The scales run from silver pink to deep rose red. But, it is red snapper’s slightly sweet and delicate taste that has me fall in love with this fish. The less done to it, the better. A whole snapper weighs from 2 to 3 pounds. Luckily, most fishmongers sell fillets. To cook these well—and this applies to all fish—depends more on look and touch than on timing, depending on the texture and thickness of the fish.
Menu
Baked Red Snapper with Fried Parsley
Mashed Potatoes
Wine: Willm Pinot Gris 2008
Dessert: Lemon Bread Pudding
Recipe Red Snapper
¾ pound red snapper fillet, cut into two portions
Salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, sliced thin
Several hot red pepper flakes
About 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Opt. Fried Parsley
Preheat oven to 450 degrees
Lay the filet, skin-side down, on an oiled baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and bake for 8-10 minutes, or until the fish is opaque throughout.
In a small sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until it is wilted. Add the pepper flakes and vinegar. Cook,
stirring, until the sauce is blended.
Spoon sauce over and the fillets and garnish with the fried parsley.
Recipe Fried Parsley
1 bunch curly parsley, washed and dried, coarse stems removed
Vegetable oil for frying
Salt
Heat the oil in a deep fryer or wok over medium-high heat. Add the parsley and hold it in the oil till crisp. Remove with a skimmer and drain on paper towers. Sprinkle with a bit of salt.
Menu
Baked Red Snapper with Fried Parsley
Mashed Potatoes
Wine: Willm Pinot Gris 2008
Dessert: Lemon Bread Pudding
Recipe Red Snapper
¾ pound red snapper fillet, cut into two portions
Salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, sliced thin
Several hot red pepper flakes
About 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Opt. Fried Parsley
Preheat oven to 450 degrees
Lay the filet, skin-side down, on an oiled baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and bake for 8-10 minutes, or until the fish is opaque throughout.
In a small sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until it is wilted. Add the pepper flakes and vinegar. Cook,
stirring, until the sauce is blended.
Spoon sauce over and the fillets and garnish with the fried parsley.
Recipe Fried Parsley
1 bunch curly parsley, washed and dried, coarse stems removed
Vegetable oil for frying
Salt
Heat the oil in a deep fryer or wok over medium-high heat. Add the parsley and hold it in the oil till crisp. Remove with a skimmer and drain on paper towers. Sprinkle with a bit of salt.
January 9, 2011
Perfect Cold Weather Dinner: Flemish Beef Stew
When I learned that one rabbit costs 40 dollars, I dropped my intention of cooking rabbit, notwithstanding that this is the Chinese Year of the Rabbit. Instead I decided on the mundane, but affordable, Flemish stew. Ideally the stew should be cooked with Belgian beer. However, any slightly bitter beer will do. It’s the use of spice cookie and cider vinegar that gives the stew its authentic Flemish flavor.
Like most stews, the dish is best made in advance since it improves with age. For once, I doubled the portion and froze half of it for future use.
Menu
Flemish Beef Stew
Roasted Cauliflower Salad
Beer: Sapporo
Wine: Côtes du Ventoux-Delas 2007
Dessert: Lemon Bread Pudding
Recipe Flemish Beef Stew
2 pounds chuck, cut into 2-inch cubes
Salt and pepper
Flour to coat
3 tablespoons butter, more if needed
2 onions, thinly sliced
1 large or 2 small bottles beer
Bouquet garni (thyme and bay leaves tied in cheesecloth)
Orange zest
Ginger bread cookie or brown sugar to taste
Cider or red vinegar to taste
Season the beef cubes with salt and pepper and dredge with the flour. Shake off any excess. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large heavy skillet over high heat and add the beef cubes until browned on all sides. Work in batches so as not to crowd the beef cubes, add more butter if necessary.
Transfer the beef cubes to a heavy Dutch oven. Put the remaining butter into the skillet; add the onions and stir, until lightly brown. Combine the onions with the meat. Deglaze the pan with some beer.
Pour the deglazed scraps over the meat. Add the bouquet garni and the orange zest. Raise the heat and add most of the remaining beer. Cover, and let simmer over low heat for 2 hours or more, stirring occasionally and adding more liquid as needed. Remove the bouquet garni and the orange zest.
When ready to serve reheat the stew. Add the sweet and sour ingredients. Season to taste.
The recipe for roasted cauliflower by Melissa Clark appeared in the New York Times. George and I liked the dish so well, we finished all of it.
Recipe Cauliflower Salad
1 small head cauliflower, cut into bite-size florets
1/3 cup olive oil, more if needed
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 bunch watercress, washed and dried, large stems removed
About ½ cup grated Gruyère or similar cheese
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees
Cover the bottom of an oven-proof glass dish with oil and place the cauliflower in a single layer into the dish. Season with salt and pepper, mix, rearrange, and brush with additional oil. Bake in preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes, turning once to brown evenly.
Meanwhile, mix together the vinegar, salt, pepper, and remaining oil. Pour over the watercress. Combine cauliflower and watercress salad in a bowl. Toss well and sprinkle with grated cheese.
Like most stews, the dish is best made in advance since it improves with age. For once, I doubled the portion and froze half of it for future use.
Menu
Flemish Beef Stew
Roasted Cauliflower Salad
Beer: Sapporo
Wine: Côtes du Ventoux-Delas 2007
Dessert: Lemon Bread Pudding
Recipe Flemish Beef Stew
2 pounds chuck, cut into 2-inch cubes
Salt and pepper
Flour to coat
3 tablespoons butter, more if needed
2 onions, thinly sliced
1 large or 2 small bottles beer
Bouquet garni (thyme and bay leaves tied in cheesecloth)
Orange zest
Ginger bread cookie or brown sugar to taste
Cider or red vinegar to taste
Season the beef cubes with salt and pepper and dredge with the flour. Shake off any excess. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large heavy skillet over high heat and add the beef cubes until browned on all sides. Work in batches so as not to crowd the beef cubes, add more butter if necessary.
Transfer the beef cubes to a heavy Dutch oven. Put the remaining butter into the skillet; add the onions and stir, until lightly brown. Combine the onions with the meat. Deglaze the pan with some beer.
Pour the deglazed scraps over the meat. Add the bouquet garni and the orange zest. Raise the heat and add most of the remaining beer. Cover, and let simmer over low heat for 2 hours or more, stirring occasionally and adding more liquid as needed. Remove the bouquet garni and the orange zest.
When ready to serve reheat the stew. Add the sweet and sour ingredients. Season to taste.
The recipe for roasted cauliflower by Melissa Clark appeared in the New York Times. George and I liked the dish so well, we finished all of it.
Recipe Cauliflower Salad
1 small head cauliflower, cut into bite-size florets
1/3 cup olive oil, more if needed
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 bunch watercress, washed and dried, large stems removed
About ½ cup grated Gruyère or similar cheese
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees
Cover the bottom of an oven-proof glass dish with oil and place the cauliflower in a single layer into the dish. Season with salt and pepper, mix, rearrange, and brush with additional oil. Bake in preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes, turning once to brown evenly.
Meanwhile, mix together the vinegar, salt, pepper, and remaining oil. Pour over the watercress. Combine cauliflower and watercress salad in a bowl. Toss well and sprinkle with grated cheese.
January 4, 2011
A Hunter's Breakfast: Our Favorite New Year's Day Dinner; Migas
My introduction to migas occurred at a hunting lodge in La Mancha country, a few hours drive from Madrid. We sat at two refectory tables in the dining hall, surrounded by moose, boar and caribou heads, and assorted stuffed birds and antlers of every size and shape.
The breakfast, served by white-gloved butlers, consisted of one dish: migas. Migas, my host explained, is a peasant dish made with bread, olive oil, peppers, and ham. Nourishing and easy to digest, it has become the traditional prologue to a Spanish hunt.
Since I don’t hunt and the dish is too copious for breakfast, I usually serve it at an early dinner on New Year’s Day.
Menu
Migas
Wine: Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Crianza 2005
Conde de Valdemar
Dessert: Flan
Recipe Migas
½-1 loaf stale white bread
¼ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika de la Vera
Salt and black pepper
1 small onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
¼ pound Serrano ham, cut into small pieces
(Prosciutto, speck or bacon work equally well.)
Remove crust from bread and cut into bite-sized portions. Sprinkle with water to dampen and wrap in a towel. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet, stir in the spices, add the
bread, salt and pepper. Mix well. Lower heat and cook bread slowly till crisp, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a separate skillet. Add onions, minced garlic and green peppers, lower heat and cook to wilt, about 15 minutes. Add Serrano ham and cook through. Fold mixture into
the bread pieces. Season to taste.
Place the dish into a bowl. Serve family style.
Beware: Tasting the sautéed, seasoned bread, I liked it so much, I couldn’t keep noshing to the point I could have skipped the trimming.
The breakfast, served by white-gloved butlers, consisted of one dish: migas. Migas, my host explained, is a peasant dish made with bread, olive oil, peppers, and ham. Nourishing and easy to digest, it has become the traditional prologue to a Spanish hunt.
Since I don’t hunt and the dish is too copious for breakfast, I usually serve it at an early dinner on New Year’s Day.
Menu
Migas
Wine: Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Crianza 2005
Conde de Valdemar
Dessert: Flan
Recipe Migas
½-1 loaf stale white bread
¼ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika de la Vera
Salt and black pepper
1 small onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1 green pepper, seeded and finely chopped
¼ pound Serrano ham, cut into small pieces
(Prosciutto, speck or bacon work equally well.)
Remove crust from bread and cut into bite-sized portions. Sprinkle with water to dampen and wrap in a towel. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a large skillet, stir in the spices, add the
bread, salt and pepper. Mix well. Lower heat and cook bread slowly till crisp, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil in a separate skillet. Add onions, minced garlic and green peppers, lower heat and cook to wilt, about 15 minutes. Add Serrano ham and cook through. Fold mixture into
the bread pieces. Season to taste.
Place the dish into a bowl. Serve family style.
Beware: Tasting the sautéed, seasoned bread, I liked it so much, I couldn’t keep noshing to the point I could have skipped the trimming.
January 2, 2011
Reflection on 2010
From my File Marked “2010 Delicious” with a Nod to Sam Sifton of the New York Times.
I cooked a lot of meals. These are ten dishes we particularly enjoyed (not necessarily in that order:
Chicken Braised in Beer with Belgian Endives (Nov. 1)
Salmon with Avocado Remoulade (October 3)
Mussels 201 (April 12)
Chicken Breast with Garlic & Parsley/Home Style Roasted Potatoes
(Oct. 22)
Filet of Sole with Almonds (August 8)
Roasted Halibut with Lemon & Rosemary (May 19)
Ginger Friend Rice (July 21)
Poached Chicken Roulade (June 9)
Steak Tartar (May 11)
A Basque Dinner: Hake (August 20)
My New Year’s resolutions? I plan to cook more risotto now that I got the hang of it; try a rabbit dish, concentrate on legumes, become more familiar with Argentinean wines, and otherwise keep an open mind.
I cooked a lot of meals. These are ten dishes we particularly enjoyed (not necessarily in that order:
Chicken Braised in Beer with Belgian Endives (Nov. 1)
Salmon with Avocado Remoulade (October 3)
Mussels 201 (April 12)
Chicken Breast with Garlic & Parsley/Home Style Roasted Potatoes
(Oct. 22)
Filet of Sole with Almonds (August 8)
Roasted Halibut with Lemon & Rosemary (May 19)
Ginger Friend Rice (July 21)
Poached Chicken Roulade (June 9)
Steak Tartar (May 11)
A Basque Dinner: Hake (August 20)
My New Year’s resolutions? I plan to cook more risotto now that I got the hang of it; try a rabbit dish, concentrate on legumes, become more familiar with Argentinean wines, and otherwise keep an open mind.
December 30, 2010
Squid Ink Risotto
When I saw a packet of squid ink at the checkout counter of Agata & Valentina, I couldn’t resist. Once home, I didn’t know what to do with it. Meanwhile I was busy with Christmas happenings. The squid ink, however, gave me no peace. I studied several recipes before embarking on a composite. Just in case the risotto wouldn’t come out, I included my tried and true Shrimp with Garlic and Parsley dish.
I didn’t have to worry. “Excellent,” said George. I agreed. The shrimps played second fiddle.
Menu
Squid Ink Risotto
Shrimps with Garlic and Parsley
Mixed Salad
Wine: Urbano Torrontès
Dessert: Cherry Garcia Ice Cream
Recipe: Squid Ink Risotto
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 cup of arborio or carnaroli rice
1 tablespoon white wine
2 ¼ cups chicken stock, heated
1 packet squid ink
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
Salt
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the rice and stir for a few minutes, coating the grains with the oil. Add the wine and enough chicken stock to cover the rice. Stir until the rice absorbs the liquid. Repeat, add a ladle of stock at a time, allow it to be absorbed until all stock is used. Cooking time will be about 18-20 minutes. Once the risotto is cooked add the squid ink, stir well, then add the Parmesan and season with salt.
To add a splash of color to the nearly black risotto, I topped the individual portions with red piquillo pepper strips. Not very Italian, but attractive. The Argentinean white wine is a recent discovery. Young and lively, it is very food friendly.
I didn’t have to worry. “Excellent,” said George. I agreed. The shrimps played second fiddle.
Menu
Squid Ink Risotto
Shrimps with Garlic and Parsley
Mixed Salad
Wine: Urbano Torrontès
Dessert: Cherry Garcia Ice Cream
Recipe: Squid Ink Risotto
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
1 cup of arborio or carnaroli rice
1 tablespoon white wine
2 ¼ cups chicken stock, heated
1 packet squid ink
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan
Salt
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the rice and stir for a few minutes, coating the grains with the oil. Add the wine and enough chicken stock to cover the rice. Stir until the rice absorbs the liquid. Repeat, add a ladle of stock at a time, allow it to be absorbed until all stock is used. Cooking time will be about 18-20 minutes. Once the risotto is cooked add the squid ink, stir well, then add the Parmesan and season with salt.
To add a splash of color to the nearly black risotto, I topped the individual portions with red piquillo pepper strips. Not very Italian, but attractive. The Argentinean white wine is a recent discovery. Young and lively, it is very food friendly.
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